Kokkari Holidays

This easygoing fishing village on the northwest coast of Samos is a cluster of pretty, terracotta-roofed Greek villas that stretch out along a triangle-shaped peninsula. At its apex is a tiny harbour with a row of bars and restaurants that are lapped by the Aegean Sea. And behind the village, the tree-capped peaks of Mount Karvouni make an imposing backdrop.

Along the western edge of the peninsula is Long Beach, an 800-metre stretch of pebble backed by tavernas and bars. It’s especially popular with windsurfers thanks to the northerly winds, though it does sometimes get large waves, so it’s not always great for swimming. The other side of the peninsula, however, is much more sheltered, and has two small, beach-fringed bays. There’s also Lemonakia Beach, a five-minute drive away – it’s one of Samos’ most famous sandy stretches.

Kokkari hasn’t changed its ways since tourists started arriving. You’ll still spot groups of men playing cards in kafeinos and grandmothers gossiping in the shade of orchid-lined alleyways. And by the harbour front is a huge choice of bars and tavernas where the warm Samos welcome is as genuine as the food. If you’re looking for somewhere to go after dark, Kokkari has a couple of discos, too.

From Kokkari, you can follow walking trails up the slopes of Mount Karvouni. They lead to sleepy mountain villages like Manolates, which is not only a wine producer but also has the ruins of the Temple of Asclepius. If you’re looking for more of a cosmopolitan buzz, a 15-minute taxi ride away is the island’s capital, Samos Town.