Costa Dorada
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City breaks to Munich are as Bavarian as they come – from the traditional architecture to the beer-heavy nightlife scene.
Munich is the capital of Bavaria, in the south of Germany, and it wears its regional crown with real pride. The chequerboard blue and white colours are flown all around the city, where tradition plays a big part in day-to-day life. Centuries-old beer halls are flanked by churches and pieces of Gothic architecture, and the spaces between are polka-dotted with pretty parks that have been inspired by Italian and English designs.
Despite being the biggest city in the region, there’s something of an intimate feel to the city centre. Marienplatz, the main square, is fronted by the huge Rathaus – or new town hall – which is one of the tallest points around. The most bustling bars are historic beer halls, where frescoed ceilings and old wooden benches set the tone. In fact, look around and you’ll see terracotta-topped rooftops instead of skyscrapers, and colourful building facades instead of flashy, modern architecture. One of its nicknames, ‘milliondorf’, even translates to ‘village of a million’.
Munich’s dotted with loads of top-notch parks, and none are more famous or popular than the English Garden. This huge green space sidles up to the edge of the Isar River, and there loads of streams and waterways that criss-cross the lawns and walking trails – some even have surfers in them making the most of mini swells. In the centre you’ll find the Chinese Garden, a beer garden with a pagoda-style tower that pokes above the treetops. Sports fans, meanwhile, should head to the north of the city to the Olympiapark – you’ll find the iconic canopy-topped stadium here, which was the main venue for the 1972 Olympic Games.
Oktoberfest parties are a thing around the world, but Munich prides itself on being home to the only real Oktoberfest. Every year, at the end of September, a piece of empty land called the Theresienwiese is filled with huge tents, rollercoasters and food stalls as the festival, known as Wiesn, kicks off. Bavarians throw on the traditional dress – lederhosen for men and durndl dresses for women – and descend on the site for a spot of merriment. Big steins of beer are served by different famous German breweries in their respective tents, to the beat of oompah bands, and the friendly atmosphere is just as much about socialising as it is drinking.
Munich is pretty far from the seafront, so swimming and sunbathing is covered by the local crop of lakes and rivers. They’re really picturesque and clean, so apart from the absence of sand, you could easily forget you’re so far from the surf.
There are little patches of sand dotted all along the banks of the Isar River, and locals regularly throw down a towel so that they can sunbathe and take a dip in the water. For a more spacious spot near the river, pick a plot in the English Garden.
Head about 40 minutes south of Munich and you’ll find Starnberger See, a huge lake that’s well set up for sunbathing. A particularly good spot is Strandbad Feldafing – this area’s got a sandy shoreline with loungers and brollies, plus a café where you can snack after a dip in the lake.
Sausages are a German staple, and the story isn’t any different in Munich. Locals have a soft spot for weisswurst, or white sausage, which is a boiled option made from veal. You’ll also find classics like bratwurst, which usually comes in a roll half the size of the sausage, and currywurst – a sliced pork sausage slathered in tangy curry sauce with a side of fries.
Beer and Munich have a long-lasting affinity, mostly due to the famous Bavarian Oktoberfest. But drinking culture in the city is far from raucous – beer gardens and halls are often filled with as many families as partygoers, who use them as a place to socialise. Big-name breweries like Augustiner, Hofbrau, Spaten, Lowenbrau, Paulaner and Hacker-Pschorr dominate drinks menus around the city, and you wont find better than these local tipples. Most even have their own bars and beer halls.
Eating a pretzel in Munich is no mean feat, given that most of them are bigger than your head. These huge salt-studded bready snacks are usually served as an accompaniment to a round of beers, and one is more than enough for a couple of people to share. Be warned though, they’re moreish and you’ll soon find yourself craving another.
This meaty dish is usually served in a bread roll, despite looking a lot like bread itself. A ground mixture of bacon and pork is baked in a loaf tin until it’s got a crusty outside, just like a loaf of bread. It’s then cut into thick slices, like a sort of meatloaf, and served in a warm ‘semmel’, or floury roll, with mustard or pickles.
These sweet doughy rolls are baked in closed pots until the bottom becomes crisp, while the tops stay soft and pale. In Munich they’re usually served a dessert, so you can expect lashings of vanilla custard, jam or sliced fruit as a topping to this melt-in-the-mouth pudding.
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