Sharm El Sheikh holidays

Naama Bay fends off all the competition when it comes to Sharm El Sheikh’s most popular beach. This long, sandy bay swelled into life in the Eighties when the first hotel appeared, and it’s gone from strength to strength ever since. A promenade backs the sand, lined with enough restaurants, cafes and bars to keep you fed and watered for a year.

El Fanar Beach in Ras Um El Seid is a beach of two halves. You’ve got the main section, which swells with visitors between late morning and mid-afternoon, and the outer parts, which no-one tends to visit. Ask your taxi driver to drop you off at the end of the beach road. Entry's about £6, but you’ll get a lounger and a towel for your money.

Sharm Old Market, near Ras Um El Seid, is your best bet for bagging a bargain. As well as fruit, veg and meat, you can pick up genuine handmade Bedouin carpets, leather goods, and cheap-and-cheerful souvenirs, like singing toy camels.

For familiar labels, head to Il Mercato in Hadaba. This smart, open-air mall models its good looks on an Italian amphitheatre. Brand names like The Body Shop and Timberland line up next to the likes of Starbucks and Costa, either side of a wide pedestrian walkway. Browse the rails, grab a bite to eat, and finish with a frozen coffee.

If you want to splash out on genuine Egyptian woven goods, plus glass and earthenware, make a date at Aladin – there’s a branch in Naama Bay. Nearby Sharm El Sheikh Marketplace houses 20-plus stores selling carpets and high-end jewellery. And elsewhere, Naama Centre shopping mall next to the Hard Rock Café is the place for gold and silver, onyx and fine Egyptian silk and cotton clothes.

If shisha pipes and bar snacks take your fancy, try one of the rooftop bars in Naama Bay. Or, if you’ve rather err on the side of tradition, book a Bedouin excursion and enjoy a star-lit dinner in the desert.

Sharm El Sheikh’s heart pulses the fastest in Naama Bay. You’ll find no shortage of casinos, bars and lounges here, along with a big nightclub. There’s also a scattering of bars in SoHo Square, in Sharks Bay – the highlight here is Egypt’s one and only ice bar.

Not just reserved for late-night revellers, the kebab is a staple in these parts. Chunks of lamb and juicy on-the-bone chops are marinated, skewered, and grilled over charcoals. The meat's then tucked into a pitta pocket, along with salad and pickles.

If you thought meze belonged exclusively to Greece, think again. In Egypt, assortments of miniature plates often take the place of a starter or even a main meal. You’ll usually get things like flatbread, tabbouleh and meatballs, served alongside dips like hummus and baba ghanoush – mashed aubergine with olive oil and seasoning.

Believe it or not, this is a bit of a delicacy in Egypt. You’ll see it on the menu at most traditional restaurants in Sharm El Sheikh – sometimes it’s listed as ‘hamam mahsy’, its Egyptian name. The bird is usually roasted and filled with rice and onion to make an indulgent, filling supper.

The Egyptians like their food spicy, but we’re talking a gentle nudge rather than a kick. To make this dish, chilli and garlic are added to fava beans. The beans are then mashed with onions and tomatoes. Sometimes it’s eaten for breakfast, when the mixture is topped with a fried egg and scooped up with pitta bread.

Mint tea, or shai, is the drink of choice in Egypt. Loose tea is steeped for around three minutes, then poured into small glass tumblers and sweetened with up to five teaspoons of sugar. It’s often drunk with baklava or konafa – cooked batter stuffed with nuts – as an after-dinner treat.