Istrian Riviera holidays

Not only does the Istrian Riviera have more than 200 miles of coastline to its name, but it’s within leap-frogging distance of 1,000 offshore islands. Therefore, it’s got a surplus supply of beaches. One thing to bear in mind, though, is that the majority of beaches in Istria are pebbly rather than sandy.

As a rule, the Istrian Riviera’s beaches don’t come in size XXL. Dinky coves and pint-sized bays are much more common in this part of the world. In terms of popularity, Baska Beach on Krk Island tops the list. The loyalty of its fans comes from the fact that it’s one of Istria’s rare white-sand stretches.

The Istrian Riviera is no stranger to secluded coves and deserted bays. Kamenjak, at the southern tip of Istria, is one of the most unspoilt sections of coastline. The inlets, coves and bays here have managed to duck out of tourism’s way thanks to their natural park status.

The market stalls in Porec do a roaring trade in novelty t-shirts and replica clothing. For something more authentic, try the flea market in Pula, where you can pick up locally-produced honey, truffles and wine. It’s near the main produce market in Narodni Trg.

The nerve centre for shopping in Croatia is Rijeka, just over an hour away from Rovinj. There are more than 140 shops here, including high street brands like Adidas, Lee Cooper and Oasis. Most shops are housed within the Tower Centre mall, which also has a cinema and restaurant area. If you’re in Pula, meanwhile, head to Laginjina Street. Some of the specialist shops here use locally-grown herbs like rosemary and pine to make soaps and perfumes.

Rovinj jewellers are dab hands at filigree and you don’t need to go further than the main shopping street, Carerra Street, to stock up. Rijeka jewellers, meanwhile, specialise in Moretto jewellery, which involves turning little busts of turbaned Moors into earrings, necklaces and broaches. There’s a jewellery shop that specialises in Moretto on Uzarska Street.

Catch an open-air theatre show in the Roman amphitheatre in Pula. You can find a list of what’s on in the tourist information centre on Istarska Street. After the curtain call, head to The Forum to drink coffee with the locals, or try the pedestrianized streets of Kandlerova or Sergijevaca for a quiet beer. If you’d rather watch a sunset than a show, head to Customs Wharf in Rovinj, where the wine bars offer front-row seats.

If the theatrical offerings in Pula are its nightlife yin, the late night bars and clubs are its yang. You’ll find some of the best dance floors and discos on Verudela Street. The after-hours action in Rovinj isn’t as prolific, but there are a few cocktail bars around Obala Pina Budicina. Porec, meanwhile, stores its disco stash around V Nazora Street and Obala Marsala Tita.

This thick soup is so close to Croatians’ hearts that the village of Gracisce holds a festival in its honour every year. It’s made from kidney beans, vegetables and smoked ham, although most Istrians have their own closely-guarded recipe for the broth.

Head to the cellar in a Croatian household and there’s a good chance you’ll find a giant ham hanging from the rafters. For many families, the creation of prsut – the Croatian equivalent of prosciutto – is a labour of love. It’s made by curing a pork leg in sea water, hanging it outside to dry, before maturing it in the cellar for a few years.

Croatia’s take on the hotdog is healthier and tastier than its American counterpart. It’s a skinless sausage made from minced lamb or beef and spiced with garlic and pepper. It’s usually served with homemade bread, onions and salad.

Croatians serve blitva with almost everything. It’s a side dish made from a type of Swiss chard, potatoes and olive oil. It’s the perfect partner to a plate of fried squid or fresh-from-the-net king prawns. And it washes down nicely with a glass of local wine.

The Istrian Riviera is the proud parent of both a white and a red wine. The white is called malvazija and it’s crisp and dry. The red is called teran and it’s got a fruity raspberry flavour. If you want to buy wine from the source, you can hire a car and follow the region’s ‘wine roads’, calling door-to-door at the area’s vineyards.