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How to holiday in Sardinia’s Costa Smeralda on a budget

Get the inside scoop on doing Costa Smeralda without breaking the bank.
The A-listers have long been enjoying exclusive getaways to the glitzy Costa Smeralda, a 35-mile stretch of coast in the Olbia region in Sardinia. In fact, this ruggedly beautiful coastline first caught the eye of Prince Karim Aga Khan in the early 1960s, and he liked it so much he built an exclusive resort.

These days, the coast is home to a glittering marina – Porto Cervo – with state-of-the-art yachts, top-of-the-range boutiques, and bars and restaurants that attract everyone from Rihanna to Kate Moss. The good news is, you can visit this must-see destination, too – you’ll find TUI hotels in Porto Cervo, as well as nearby Budoni and Baia Sardinia. And you don’t need to worry about the purse strings while you’re here, believe it or not.

FIND THE FREE BEACHES

Yes, lots of the bigger hotels have their own private beaches, but there are also plenty of free beaches to explore in this part of Sardinia. Head to the region’s largest beach, Spiaggia Liscia Ruja – it’s at the end of a 2km dirt road, south of Hotel Cala di Volpe. Further round the coast is the Spiaggia del Principe, a popular celebrity hangout, and the Spiaggia Pevero, another celebrity haunt. The only thing you’ll need to pay for is car parking, which will set you back a couple of euros.

SEEK OUT AFFORDABLE RESTAURANTS

At first glance, you might think reasonably-priced restaurants in Porto Cervo are hard to find. But wander a little further from the main tourist areas and you’ll find backstreet trattorias and low cost lunch stops that won’t have you reaching for the credit card. At Il Pomodoro, next to the Piazzetta, the humble margherita is the cheapest pizza on the menu at £7.50, while a three-course meal with antipasti and a glass of wine will cost in the region of £38.

If you’re self-catering or planning a picnic, you can pick up cheeses, cured meats and culurgiones – aka traditional Sardinian ravioli – at the Frades-La Sardegna restaurant in Bottega at Promenade du Port. Meanwhile La Spigola Ristorante & Bar in Golfo Aranci, which is a 40-minute drive south of Porto Cervo, serves up fresh sea bass and lobster for around €25 a piece. Plus it’s right on the beach.

GO FOR A DRINK AT SUNSET

When it comes to evening entertainment, Billionaire Club is undoubtedly the most famous establishment in the area. It’s owned by former racing driver Flavio Briatore and you’ll need to have your name on the guest list – or be very friendly with the doormen – to get in. But there are plenty more accessible hangouts where a bottle of Champagne will cost considerably less than £30k. The Lord Nelson is an English-style pub on the marina, and most drinks here range from around £4 to £12. You can also pick up a traditional cooked breakfast the morning after for around £8. Meanwhile, a daiquiri at Aqua Lounge in Porto Cervo will set you back €12 or about £9.50. Then there’s Phi Beach, in Baia Sardinia, where you can mingle with the beautiful people while sipping affordable cocktails as the sun goes down.

PICK UP BARGAINS AT A LOCAL MARKET

While the Costa Smeralda has style in spades, you’ll have a hard time actually finding a bucket and spade here. Porto Cervo’s shops are all about brands – think Prada, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. But if you’re looking for trinkets, street markets are the place to head to. They run in the summer months in nearby towns and villages. On Thursday mornings head to the village of San Pantaleo, a 20-minute drive from Porto Cervo and Baia Sardinia. You’ll find fabrics, local food and handicrafts that make great souvenirs, all set against a backdrop of San Pantaleo’s beautiful church and fountain. Other markets include Cannigione on Mondays, Baia Sardinia on Tuesdays, Arzachena and La Maddalena on Wednesdays, Santa Teresa di Gallura on Thursdays, Palau on Fridays and Tempio on Saturdays. Phew.

HIRE A CAR AND EXPLORE

If you’re planning to get out and about and want to save on taxi costs, hiring a car is the best option to see the Costa Smeralda. With your own wheels, you’ll be able to escape the crowds and find those hard-to-get-to beaches with miles of sand to call your own. Parking is fairly easy to find and most car parks will only cost a few euros. Plus, you can find free parking zones if you’re happy to walk a little way.
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Find out more about what’s on offer in Sardinia and read all about the Italian tradition of aperitivo.

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Last updated: 19.07.2016