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How to do southern Sicily’s ultimate foodie road trip

Ready to eat your way around southern Sicily? Here's your ultimate foodie road trip.
Sicily is the perfect place to explore by car. This Italian island – the largest in the Mediterranean, which sits just off the tip of Italy’s boot – has a good network of well-marked roads that are ideal for road trips. Hire a car and you can visit all the big-name sights, including Mount Etna on the east coast, various filming locations used in The Godfather trilogy further north around Taormina, and historical sights aplenty in the province of Syracuse in the south-east.

Step off the beaten track, though, and there’s a long list of lesser-known sights to tick off, particularly for food lovers. Here’s how to sample three of the island’s culinary delights – including Sicily’s oldest chocolate factory – by visiting a clutch of baroque towns and cities in one trip.

1. FUEL UP ON ESPRESSO AND PASTRIES IN NOTO

Start the day early in Noto, about a 45-minute drive from Syracuse via the SS115. The city’s main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, packs in a whole host of beautiful baroque churches and palaces, as well as lots of places to eat. Head straight for Caffe Sicilia at number 125 and get dessert for breakfast – because, why not? You’ll want an espresso on account of the fact it’s early, a pastry of some sort to keep you going for the busy day ahead, and one of Caffe Sicilia’s famous granite – a crushed ice drink with fruit juice – to cool you down. Enjoy it all with a spot of people-watching out the front, then set off back along Corso Vittorio Emanuele and pick up a prosciutto-filled roll for lunch on the go.

2. GO CHOCOLATE-TASTING IN MODICA

A 45-minute drive west from Noto, again along the SS115, takes you to the city of Modica. Leave enough time to find a parking space as it can be tricky, then head straight for Dolceria Bonajuto on Corso Umberto – Modica’s main street. This is Sicily’s oldest chocolate factory, and the place to try Modica’s famous chocolate, which is flavoured with everything from cinnamon to chilli. Just bear in mind it’s closed between 1.30 and 4.30pm. So if you don’t quite make it in the morning you can eat your lunch while exploring Modica’s historic centre first, and save the chocolate-tasting for the early afternoon. You’ll be first in line.

3. SIT DOWN TO A TRADITIONAL DINNER IN RAGUSA

Once you’ve had your fill of the sweet stuff, take the SS115 towards Ragusa, which will take about half an hour. Park in the car park underneath the Piazza della Repubblica and set off in the direction of Ragusa Ibla. It’s a bit of a walk, but it’s the hub of restaurants and traditional trattorias, so you’re well set up for dinner. Keep walking all the way out to Piazza Pola and you’ll find places like Il Barocco tucked down a side street. Try the fresh pasta and the caponata – traditional cooked vegetable salad – and wash it all down with some vino locale. Or, pull up a chair at La Rusticana, close by Corso XXV Aprile. It’s a similar, home-cooked affair, and it’s a big hit with the locals – which is truly the best recommendation you can get in Sicily.
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Author: Katie Gregory

Last updated: 26.08.2016

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