‘I’d return to Riva again and again – this is what we got up to’

We’ve all got somewhere we’d happily return to on holiday again and again. For Dave Smith, that place is Riva, a historical town on the northern shore of Lake Garda, Italy. It’s where mountains meet crystal-clear water, with more walks, cycle trails and watersports to get stuck into than anyone could fit into a single holiday.

‘If you love an active holiday, the northern end of Lake Garda’s for you,’ says Dave. ‘The south of the lake is great if you want a more relaxing trip. But I could come back to Riva every year and find different things to do every time.’

So what did Dave and his partner Gin get up to on their September trip to Riva?

How to spend a week in Riva

Day 1 – Get to know the historical harbour town

‘We began our trip in the best possible way, with a rooftop breakfast at our hotel, Kristal Palace,’ says Dave. ‘The food was fantastic, with loads of different options – plus a glass of prosecco – and a live guitarist creating a really lovely chilled vibe. It was easily one of the best breakfast experiences of my life.

'We spent the first day exploring Riva, starting with a ride in the panoramic glass lift to the top of the Bastion, the Venetian tower you can’t miss on the hill above Riva. The views out over Lake Garda were incredible. If you love great scenery, this is the best way to start your trip.

‘A stroll along the promenade to the neighbouring village of Torbole is a must too. It takes about 45 minutes and we stopped halfway at a street food shack to enjoy a burger and an Aperol spritz. We found it very well priced, which was the case everywhere we went.’

Day 2 – Ferry-hop around Lake Garda

‘Going on a ferry trip is an absolute must at Lake Garda. We focused on the northern end of the lake as we were staying in Riva, and this meant we found it easy to fit in two stops in a day without feeling rushed.

‘First, we jumped on the ferry from Riva to Limone, a little cliffside town on the western shore. It’s known for its lemon groves, so Gin and I made it our goal to try as many lemon products as possible while we explored the cobbled streets. These included a lemon slush and lemon sorbet served in a hollow lemon. Delicious!

‘Next stop was Malcesine over on the eastern side of the lake. The approach to Malcesine by ferry is absolutely stunning, as you pass the medieval Scaliger Castle. After a lakefront lunch of pizza and Caprese salad, we headed up to the castle. It's on a cliff that juts out into the water meaning you get great views both up and down the lake – and some cracking Insta shots.’

Day 3 – Try out some watersports

‘We were keen to get out on the water under our own steam, and we found it super easy to rent kayaks in Riva,’ says Dave. ‘It was great value too.

‘Off we headed across the lake in our kayaks towards Cascata del Ponale, which is a really beautiful waterfall. You can see it on a walk too, but we loved the approach by water. We paddled through a tiny crack in the rock and along a little channel to reach the waterfall, and we were the only people there. It was magical.

‘We spent the afternoon relaxing at the Kristal Palace’s rooftop pool bar – and making the most of happy hour. We enjoyed a couple of spritzes with live guitar music while watching the sun go down across the lake. It doesn’t get much better than that.’

Mountains, meadows and alpine lakes in Val di Fassa

Day 4 – Day trip to the Dolomites

‘One of my top recommendations for anyone going to Riva is to book an excursion to the Dolomites,’ says Dave. ‘This unique mountain range is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it’s one of the most beautiful places in Europe in my opinion.

‘You can travel through Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa before weaving up a spectacular road with 27 hairpin bends, and there’s the option to ride a cable car to see the views from the Sass Pordoi mountain, right up at 2,950m. We particularly loved visiting Val di Fassa.’

Dave cycling through olive groves near Riva

Day 5 – Explore on two wheels

‘Hiring e-bikes in Riva was one of the best decisions we made,' says Dave. 'It was very easy – we just walked to the nearest cycling shop and picked them up. We set off along the promenade towards Torbole, then branched off inland along a cycle path that winds through olive groves to Arco Castle.

‘Arco Castle is the highest point in the local area, and the views were amazing. The final stretch up to the castle was quite steep, but e-bikes give you extra power to save your legs. After exploring the castle, we cycled on to the Cascata del Varone – waterfalls inside a cave – before heading back to Riva for an evening of wine tasting at Comai vineyard just outside the town.’

Day 6 – Visit Lake Ledro

‘Don’t miss the chance to visit another gorgeous lake while in Riva,' advises Dave. 'Little Lake Ledro is only about 15km away, and there’s a cracking cycle route to get there – or you can jump on the bus if you prefer. Along the way we added another waterfall to our list, by stopping off at the Cascata del Gorg ‘Abiss.

‘Cycling around Lake Ledro was incredibly scenic, and fairly easy – even for someone like me who hasn’t been on a bike for a long time. Most of the route was a purpose-built cycle path.

‘We paused for a charcuterie lunch beside Lake Ledro, right by the water with greenery all around. It was so peaceful – it might have been the highlight of our trip.’