How to visit the Borromean Islands on Lake Maggiore

How do you get to the Borromean Islands?

The islands are a few hundred metres from the shore in the west of the lake. Passenger boats run regularly from several nearby towns but for the easiest access, stay in Stresa. It’s the closest town to the islands, and the circular boat route starts there and goes to Isola Bella, then Isola dei Pescatori and then on to Isola Madre.

Or you can skip waiting for the next public boat and get there even quicker by booking a private water taxi instead.

Best for over-the-top opulence: Isola Bella

The Borromeo family bought ‘Beautiful Island’ in the 17th century and built a Baroque palace and tiered garden that was designed to look like a sailing ship. Today, most of it’s open to visitors, so just step off the boat, buy your ticket and head inside – or add on a guided tour to find out more about the place.

The palace

Walk from ballrooms to bedrooms, including ones that have been stayed in by Napoleon and Mussolini. Each room is brimming with priceless paintings and furniture, rare instruments and tapestries woven from silk and gold. And underground, there’s a series of grottoes that have been intricately decorated from floor to ceiling with shells and pebbles.

Take time during your visit to stop in the café too – you can sit on the terrace and sip a proper Italian coffee while you enjoy the views of the grounds and lake.

Best for authentic charm and great restaurants: Isola dei Pescatori

‘Fishermen’s Island’ is the smallest, at just 100m wide and 350m long. And it’s the only one that’s not owned by the Borromeo family and is home to a local community, with around 30 people living there permanently – which also means it’s free to visit.

There’s been a fishing village there for centuries, and it’s well suited to the trade – the whole island is actually shaped like a fish. Take a walk along the 2m-wide, cobbled street that runs along the ‘spine’, and branches off into narrow alleys and tiny courtyards. Stop to visit the 11th-century Church of San Vittore, whose spire towers over the village’s terracotta roofs. And pop inside the little fishing museum (which used to be the school) to learn about the island’s past.

But the main reason to visit Pescatori is the restaurants, where you can sample the freshest lake fish and seafood – one of the best things to eat on a holiday to the Italian lakes. Sit at a waterside table and listen to the lapping waves as you enjoy a meal of perch or trout, with a glass of local wine.

Best for extensive gardens: Isola Madre

‘Mother Island’ is the biggest at around 20 acres, and was once a simple place with just a church and olive grove. Then the Borromeo’s bought it in the 16th century and Count Vitaliano IX made it his mission to create a glorious garden with plants from all over the world. Like on Bella, you can buy a ticket to explore the island as you get off the boat, and add on a guided tour if you like.

The palace

You can go inside to see the Reception Hall, Venetian Lounge, Library and Battles Room, all decorated with intricate frescoes and Italian masterpieces. And you won’t want to miss the marionette theatre, where the family used to put on shows to entertain guests – you can still see the huge sets and puppets, as well as the special effects machines that were used to create fog and fire.

Round off your day at the café, savouring a glass or wine as you look out over ponds filled with lilies, reeds and lotus flowers.