Agkisaras Holidays

This village on Crete’s north coast doesn’t command much tourist attention, which is exactly why traditionalists like it. It ticks along like any other local village, which means the authentic feel’s no illusion. Olive groves and winding lanes outnumber the holiday apartments inland, and the sandy beach is fringed by sea-view tavernas and family-run hotels.

Heraklion, a 30-minute drive along the coast, is the polar opposite of Agkisaras. It’s great for days out, but the secret’s definitely not under wraps. By day, visitors come in their droves to visit the archaeological museum, the waterfront fortress and the ancient Palace of Knossos. And if you stick around until the evening, you’ll see the sunset glow replaced by a neon one, as the night scene kicks into action.

You’re well placed in Agkisaras to visit one of Crete’s most unique historical sites – the Lasithi Plateau. This huge patch of open ground looks unremarkable at first glance, until you start to spot the specks of white across the surface. A closer inspection will show you that these are windmills, which were built in their thousands to help with irrigation in the early 1900s. Stroll among the almond trees and orchards, and you can take up-close pictures with the sail-topped towers.