Madeira holidays

Madeira might not be known for its golden sandy beaches, but that doesn’t mean the island’s coast will disappoint. Its pebbly bays and volcanic sweeps are backed by dramatic rock formations and soaring cliffs, and washed by waters with some of the best visibility in Portugal.

Praia de Calheta consists of two narrow slivers of sand, which sit either side of a blue lagoon. The sands were shipped all the way over from Morocco and, with golden grains in short supply in Madeira, this swathe attracts quite a crowd. The breakwater means there aren’t any waves here, so the swimming conditions are perfect for children.

Calhau da Lapa is at the bottom of a steep cliff, about 10 minutes west of Funchal. This small, pebbly cove is washed by translucent waves and surrounded by nothing more than a handful of Famous Five-style cottages.

Funchal’s Municipal Market – otherwise known as the Farmer’s Market – is packed with stalls selling fresh flowers, fruit and veg, and the island’s trademark straw bags. You’ll also find a good selection of exquisitely embroidered linen. Canico de Baixo, meanwhile, is home to just a clutch of souvenir shops, where you can pick up pretty fridge magnets adorned with the famous Madeira flora, and antique-looking ships in bottles.

Madeira Shopping, in Santa Quiteria, is the island’s biggest mall. It’s got no less than 80 high street-style stores, as well as 20 restaurants and a sprinkling of coffee shops. Another option for clothes shopping is Rua Fernao Ornelas in Funchal. The street is packed with well-known names like Mango and Massimo Dutti.

Madeira doesn’t host much of a designer shopping scene. That doesn't mean it scrimps when it comes to shops though – La Vie Shopping Centre in the centre of Funchal hosts more than 70 stores, with names like Mango and Zara joining forces with a list of Portuguese fashion brands. If you want to pick up a piece of art, meanwhile, Funchal’s backstreets are freckled with minimalist studios selling contemporary works by local painters.

Funchal’s old town was made for exploring. Delve into its maze of cobbled streets, and you’ll stumble upon authentic little tavernas half-hidden by blooms. Down by the waterfront, al fresco tables freckle the promenade, and live bands come out to entertain diners. In Canico de Baixo, the night-time entertainment tends to be limited to the hotels, but there are a few quiet bars in the old quarter’s main square.

Funchal’s the marker for Madeira’s nightlife scene. Most of the action’s centred around Av. Do Mar, the coastal road that runs from the city’s main port. The bars that snake off the main road are well worth a look in for nights out, too – here, you’ve got late-night casinos, nightclubs and bars hosting happy hours.

Big bowlfuls of tomato and onion soup are popular as a starter in Madeira, and this version of the dish comes with a floating poached egg. Enjoy it with a slice of hot, chunky ‘bolo do caco’. This deliciously chewy bread is spread with garlic butter, and it’s perfect for dunking in the creamy soup.

Carne de vinho el alhos is a local staple. Small pieces of juicy pork are left to marinate for a day in a mix of garlic, wine, vinegar and bay leaves. The meat is then cooked in the sauce, and served alongside roasted vegetables.

This tender fish is unique to Madeira. There are lots of ways to eat it, but one of the most popular is to lightly batter the fish, and then serve it with fried bananas or chunky chips. For an indulgent treat, some upmarket restaurants give you the option of having it poached in Champagne.

Chefs prepare this dish by rubbing large chunks of beef in garlic and salt, before skewering them on to a bay leaf stick and grilling them over smouldering wood chips. The cooked meat is usually served with chips and vegetables.

The rich, sherry-like Madeira wine is an absolute must-try when you’re on the island. It comes in different varieties, but the sweet dessert wine is the most popular. Its crisp, woody flavour perfectly complements puddings.