Lombok holidays

Lombok’s beaches play up to the tropical stereotypes of pale sands, warm waters and rugged backdrops. The majority of them still feel like an undiscovered secret, too, with sands clear of people, loungers and bars. Plus, the waves attract surfers from all over the globe.

You’ve probably heard of Bali’s Kuta Beach. Well, this is Lombok’s very own version. Here, it’s a serene patch of cream-coloured sand, with calm, transparent waters – a rarity for a surfing hotspot. There’s a makeshift swing, as well as shacks selling the usual food, cool-down drinks and bracelets, but it’s easy to escape the crowds with a walk down the sands. If you want to surf, Selong Belanak is considered one of the island’s top places.

If you like your sandy stretches with forest backdrops, see-through waters and no tourists, try Pandanan Beach. Most tourists gravitate towards Lombok’s southern coast, so this north-coast gem’s still under the radar. The only people you’ll find on this belt are locals tucking into fried rice at one of the handful of warungs – small, family-run eateries. Other than that, you can enjoy the sands to yourself.

Markets are your best bet for a bargain in these parts. Check out Cakranegara Market in the capital, Mataram, where you can get your hands on everything from clothes and jewellery to spices and hardware.

Lombok’s got its fair share of surf shops. Most of them are in Kuta, where you can even get custom-made surf boards, tailored to your weight, height and design requirements. If you’re a vintage-vulture, head over to Gili T for the day. It’s worth it for the retro clobber at Casa Vintage boutique – think over-the-top costume jewellery, handbags and funky sunglasses.

You won’t find many buildings above one or two storeys in Lombok – that is, apart from the multi-storey malls in the island’s capital, Mataram. Epicentrum Mall’s the newest, bringing international names like Ralph Lauren, Billabong and The Body Shop to the table. Meanwhile, Mataram Mall packs in a more traditional range of shops and a big supermarket.

It’s easy to wind things down for an evening in Lombok. Pre-sunset, you can head straight for one of the island’s main beaches. Here, there are bars set up on the sands, with oversized beanbags, sand-sunken tables and candles for décor. Alternatively, swap a beach bar for a beach club, where you can recline on a daybed and sip cocktail into the night.

Lombok’s not one for wild nights out, but it does offer a good dose of lively bars. In Senggigi, they put on DJs, cabaret shows and live music, alongside cocktails. For something even more upbeat, Gili T steps up to the mark, with its party-‘til-dawn clubs and full moon parties.

Every Indonesian island has its own version of satay – or sate. And Lombok’s doesn’t disappoint. Marinated beef chunks are stuck on bamboo skewers, slowly grilled over charcoals and served with rice.

Nasi puyung's the Lombok equivalent of fried rice, so you’ll find it all over the island. Instead of being fried, the rice is steamed in a banana leaf, with lemongrass, chilli and shrimp paste. It’s dished up on the same leaf, with added chicken, string beans and sambal – a spicy, hot relish.

This hearty soup bubbles away in most Lombok kitchens. Goat or beef ribs are stewed in a pot filled with tamarind leaves, garlic, shallots and ginger. Once cooked, the meat should fall off the bone. It’s eaten with rice, lime juice and Indonesia’s staple sauce, sambal.

A Lombok wedding and festival favourite, ares is a sweet curry made with banana stems. It’s mixed with beef, chicken and fish, then simmered with coconut milk, ginger and turmeric.

Don’t let the appearance of this dessert put you off. It’s actually the Indonesian take on the traditional British rice pudding. And it’s the sticky black rice that gives the pudding its dark appearance. The rice is combined with pandan leaves, red palm sugar, and topped with coconut milk – giving it a sweet and creamy taste.