North Goa holidays

The beaches of North Goa channel the kind of exotic scenery you’d automatically associate with India. The coastline is characterised by porcelain sweeps of sand, which are washed by aquamarine waters and hidden from the roadsides by palms. The beaches in North Goa are livelier than those in the south, and lots come with watersports and beach bars.

Baga Beach extends for 19 kilometres. Not only is it one of the biggest stretches of sand in the region, it’s also got the best atmosphere. Sunbeds are lined up like soldiers along the water’s edge, locals sit braiding holidaymakers’ hair under the shade of palms, and Indian music drifts out from thatched beach huts.

Aswem Beach, about a half-hour drive from Arpora, is pin-drop peaceful all year round. It fronts its namesake village, which is little more than a few shacks and a couple of shops, so few visitors pass through. The wide, pale sands are pretty empty, although there are a couple of bars behind the beach where you can grab fish curries at lunchtime.

Arpora’s Saturday Night Market is more like a show than a shopping experience. Fortune-tellers and local musicians mingle with the merchants here. And the stalls overflow with Tibetan jewels, wood carvings and spices sculpted into powder pyramids. The good news is, you can take your time here – this place doesn’t shut up shop until 2 in the morning.

Over on Candolim’s Fort Aguada Road you’ll spot big-name Western brands like Levi, Adidas and Hugo Boss. Some of the labels produce a lot of their stock in India, too, which means you can pick things up for a fraction of the price you’d pay at home. There’s also an art gallery here, which is worth a look for its interesting tribal pieces.

The town of Calangute is right next to Baga, and it’s where you’ll find India’s answer to Versace and Louis Vuitton. A local designer name to look out for is Malini Ramani, who specialises in floaty, Vivienne Westwood-inspired pieces that are the outfits of choice for Bollywood stars. Some of the 5-star hotels in the area have onsite boutiques, as well, which specialise in silk clothing and gold jewellery.

It’s not all about full moon parties – quiet nights are easier to find than you might think in North Goa. Just behind the beaches in Candolim and Arpora, there are clutches of bars where evenings revolve around cold bottles of Kingfisher and platters of freshly-plucked seafood. There’s also a multiplex cinema in the capital, Panaji, where you can watch the latest flicks in English.

Dance into the early hours at Tito’s Lane in Baga. The town’s main street is packed with bars playing thumping music and churning out fishbowl cocktails. The bars tend to get livelier as you head up the strip. Tito’s and Café Mambo sit right at the end, and stay open until the early hours of the morning. Candolim also has a good line of clubs. Don’t miss Vanilla Lounge, a bohemian shack on the beach that lays on belly dancing and themed music nights. Their signature cocktail – Va Va Vanilla – is one not to be missed.

These delicious pastry parcels are Goa’s twist on the traditional Indian samosa. The crispy triangles are stuffed with chicken, pork, beef or vegetables, and laced with exotic spices for a spicy kick.

Head into any of Goa’s traditional café-like eateries – known locally as ‘dhabas’ or ‘bhojanalyas’ – and you’ll often be served a portion of dhal for free. This mushy lentil dish is spiced with curry. Order a side of rice or a chapatti flatbread to go with it, and you’ve got a really cheap and tasty lunch.

Most of the fishing in Goa is done in the winter time, and one of the most popular dishes to cook during the season is baby hammerhead shark. It’s grilled in a tandoor oven, flavoured with spices and served with a mountain of rice. This type of shark only has one bone, too, so it’s really easy to eat.

A popular local dessert, bebinca is a spongy pudding made from flour, sugar, butter and coconut milk. It’s usually enjoyed at Christmas time, and it’s traditionally baked in 16 layers. Try it with strawberries and a scoop of ice-cream.

This liquor is classified as ‘country liquor’, so you can’t get it anywhere but Goa. There are a couple of versions – one is made from the sap of the coconut palm, and the other from the juice of the cashew fruit. Popular brands to look out for include Cashyo and Big Boss.